Preparing for a three-week mission in the United Arab Emirates often comes with numerous warnings about heat and humidity. As someone who was born and raised in Chennai and knows very well the merciless sun and stickiness of the coastal city, Diary was very amused by this warning and assured that it would feel like home.
And through the first week, that confidence remained. The Diary was better off than the poor in cooler regions, especially the Europeans in the press box and on the field. But nothing can prepare you for the microwave-like heat radiating through the windows of an Emirates flight as it lands in Dubai.
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Dubai has some of the smoothest roads Diary has ever traveled. Where the warm sun covers your face and never lets go, and luxury cars speed around. The Airbnb driver in The Diary was a middle-aged gentleman originally from Balochistan, Pakistan. “ Madam, are you going to watch the game? Who’s playing here now? (Ma’am, are you here to watch the game? Who’s playing?),” he asked when Diary mentioned sports travel. There were no banners or promotional items in sight. You couldn’t tell that this city was hosting 10 of the best teams in the world.
Friendly attitude: ICC officials were kind enough to open up the boardroom, where supposedly some of the sport’s biggest decisions are made, for current journalists. | Photo credit: Lavanya Lakshmi Narayanan
Friendly attitude: ICC officials were kind enough to open up the boardroom, where sport’s biggest decisions are supposedly made, for current journalists. | Photo credit: Lavanya Lakshmi Narayanan
“Women’s World Cup? Pakistan is also Usmain? (Is Pakistan also playing?)” followed by a question. The romantic, who stopped watching cricket after Pakistan all-rounder Shahid Afridi retired, cheered up after hearing that his local player Diana Baig was in Dubai. When he found out that ticket prices started from AED 5, he immediately called his wife. “cave glassShould we take the girls to the cricket match this weekend?” he suggested. The rest of the trip took place against the backdrop of Dubai’s fast highways, with sweet picnic plans in the background.
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Diary’s ‘home’ view includes Dubai Stadium on the right and the sprawling golf village on the left, soon to be visited by players from the Australian women’s cricket team. Practice sessions were held at the ICC headquarters a kilometer away in the opposite direction. The first cricket match on the schedule was a warm-up match against South Africa, with both teams using half their fuel tanks. A slow, eye-catching wicket on the practice field hinted at what was to come.
A sumptuous meal: The shawarma was our first outdoor meal after days of media room food and home-cooked meals, and it was prepared modestly to save money. | Photo credit: Lavanya Lakshmi Narayanan
A sumptuous meal: The shawarma was our first outdoor meal after days of media room food and home-cooked meals, and it was prepared modestly to save money. | Photo credit: Lavanya Lakshmi Narayanan
The Diary reluctantly had to miss the tournament opener in Sharjah as India’s training and press conference clashed with the match in Dubai. ICC officials were kind enough to open the boardroom, where some of the sport’s biggest decisions are supposedly made, for journalists today. Arabian wrap and fresh fruit juice were provided.
All that glitters is gold. Incredibly gorgeous jewels filled the gold market. | Photo credit: Lavanya Lakshmi Narayanan
All that glitters is gold. Incredibly gorgeous jewels filled the gold market. | Photo credit: Lavanya Lakshmi Narayanan
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India’s loss to New Zealand in their first group match raised the possibility of a clash with Pakistan. On a hot Sunday afternoon, around 16,000 spectators flocked to Dubai to watch the continental rivals (though not much of a rivalry on the field) face off. One Pakistani journalist, who recorded his piece on camera in the stadium’s spacious parking lot, said: “It’s a very non-competitive match. “India is way ahead.” “ Arei, please look at what I mean by this. (How can you say that, brother? Just wait.)” A young man passing by retorted.
Fatima Sana and her team seemed to embody those feelings as they rode close by on the sidewalk, unnerving every moment of the chase. India eventually steadied the ship and earned their first point of the tournament. It was the 100th T20I played at the stadium and the Emirates Cricket Board handed out red velvet cupcakes to mark the occasion.
The City That Never Sleeps: The Diary’s ‘home’ view features the Dubai Stadium on the right and the expansive Golf Village on the left. | Photo credit: Lavanya Lakshmi Narayanan
The City That Never Sleeps: The Diary’s ‘home’ view features the Dubai Stadium on the right and the expansive Golf Village on the left. | Photo credit: Lavanya Lakshmi Narayanan
Finally meeting colleagues covering the women’s game – people previously only seen on Zoom during press conferences – The Diary finished the week with a visit to the market, one of the city’s oldest districts.
The market was a feast for the senses. The scent of scarlet Iranian saffron and the finest spices filled the air, and shockingly gorgeous gems filled the gold souks. Speaking Malayalam proved to be a bonus and helped me secure better deals in most, if not all, jewelery stores. The souks had everything to offer something for everyone, from ornate gold-inlaid hijabs to opulent boots and statement pieces. After exploring, Diary found a small cafe with over 70 items on the menu. The shawarma was our first outdoor meal after days of media room food and home-cooked meals, and it was prepared modestly to save money.
The Diary finally arrived in Sharjah to watch England beat South Africa. Sharjah is a delightful venue, small and intimate, with an open press box just a stone’s throw from the stadium. The stand is so small that you can get great views of the surrounding buildings without a ticket. Families of England internationals made up most of the small audience and were rewarded with victory.
